Thursday 15 November 2007

Gastropub's organic school dinners strangled by red tape

By Will Davies

CHILDREN at an Oxfordshire Primary School will no longer be served school meals cooked by a nearby gastropub, after Government red tape strangled its healthy food initiative.

In January 2006 only four children at Stoke Row Primary School were signed up for lunches, described by school head Steven McTegart as ‘worse than turkey twizzlers’ and so bad that when inspected by a supervisor, the school was told to stop serving the food.

Desperate to get pupils eating healthily, Mr. McTegart approached celebrity chef Paul Clerehugh, who set up one of the first gastropubs, The Crooked Billett. He has since revolutionised pupils’ eating habits, with tasty, organic, locally-sourced menus, chosen by the children.

In fact he has been so successful, serving 250 meals a week to around 47 regular takers including a 100 per cent uptake by pupils eligible for free meals, he has had to employ extra staff.

But early next year, new legislation will be introduced by central Government, which will put an end to the school’s enterprising initiative.
"We will have to take samples of every meal and freeze them, just in case there are problems down the line," Mr. McTegart told the Standard.
"On top of this, we must send samples from all 15 meals to a lab to be analysed; the paperwork will be enormous."

Mr. Clerehugh says the cost of sending samples to a laboratory could be ‘at least £20,000 a year’ and will cost schools in the county ‘hundreds of thousands of pounds.’ He said: "Although the school pays for every penny of the food, I am still subsidising the scheme, paying wages for two staff and their accommodation.

"The Crooked Billet may be well-known in the area, but it is still a small business and cannot afford the extra outlay. We would have to have every ingredient analysed — over 500 — and not for toxins, but so the nanny state can analyse the nutritional value to see if it is correct, and I’ve got to pay for that."

Under the new rules, the pub is also prohibited from cooking any processed food, and fruit puddings must contain a minimum 45 per cent fruit, leaving Mr. Clerehugh perplexed and frustrated as many of the locally-sourced, affordable food items he uses to make the scheme financially viable fall under the banner of ‘processed’.

He added: "This stupid legislation takes a wonderful school, running a hugely successful, healthy scheme and says they can no longer eat local, organic pork sausages, minced meat or honey-sweetened flapjacks with fresh raisins. But I can give them ‘Caribbean fish’ or tinned fruit. It’s really pushed us into a corner."

Mr. Clerehugh, a consultant on Jamie Oliver’s Channel 4 programme School Dinners, argues that if a school opts out of council provision, it should be able to devise its own ‘common sense menu’. He added: "When the district council did the lunches, which consisted of tinned ham, tinned potatoes and tinned carrots, the children slept in the afternoon and there were accidents in the playground.

"With our meals, they are alert all day as their blood sugar levels are balanced and correct. This is a small school with no funds and I want to carry on if I can. If any readers can help, or come up with suggestions or legal loop-holes, please get in touch."

The school says it is currently in negotiations with a number of school catering companies to fill the void, but from next term children ‘may have to bring in sandwiches’, including those eligible for free meals.

Wednesday 7 November 2007

Youth centre will turn Henley into 'Croxteth-on-Thames'

By Will Davies

Furious residents in Greys Road have rejected plans for the proposed state-of-the-art youth centre at Makins Recreation Ground, warning it will turn the area into ‘Croxteth-on-Thames’.

Prompted by what they say is the town council’s poor upkeep of the Makins site, including ‘drug-related graffiti’ left on the skate park, dozens of residents in Greys Road have expressed interest in signing a petition in a bid to stop the £2.5 million centre being developed.

"Like the scouts, the residents of Greys Road have totally rejected plans for a proposed youth centre going in at Makins," raged resident Will Hamilton. "Why can’t it stay where it is and have that site redeveloped - is this not good scout common sense?"

Residents fear that if built, the centre will exacerbate the present situation, which has seen a constant barrage of graffiti daubed on play equipment, including the act of ‘tagging’ - spraying a particular signature logo which police have told residents is a calling card for drug users to gather.
They say they would like to live in Henley-on-Thames, ‘not Croxteth-on-Thames’ - referring to the district of north Liverpool notorious for bitter gang rivalries and casual violence.

Mr. Hamilton, who is spearheading the campaign to halt the development, added: "We are still awaiting the green paint from the council to mask the graffiti on the YPod - we have been waiting six months - it should never have been put there. And the graffiti on the ramps is still awaiting to be cleaned off - as you know this is drug related. My neighbours are livid."

Another resident, Kirsty McMillan, recently received an email from the town council stating it is ‘currently running a trial to allow some artwork to remain on part of the equipment’ and that it will be ‘closely monitored by parks service staff’.

Reacting to this, Mr. Hamilton said: "If this is the case, they are effectively sponsoring such offensive behaviour. Just look at what has happened at the Reading skateboard site."

He added: "Since running this trial a huge amount of graffiti has come back. Whatever they put there will be covered in graffiti before long.
"If it was on the town hall it would be cleaned off straight away. The council only put the skate park in at Makins to stop kids smoking and drinking in the market place."

Mrs. McMillan says she is concerned the new development could damage the value of her home. She said: "It will impact on the saleability of my home, its value and our standard of living.
"My 100-year-old grandmother recently looked out of the window here to see a hideously obscene word sprayed in large letters on the skate park.

"We have been duped by the council into thinking they are interested in everybody’s views. They have consulted the youth groups and the schools but not the residents - nothing we have requested has been delivered on.
"Before we know it, there will be JCBs outside, clogging up the traffic. Where is our representation? We already have a youth centre in the town - why not redevelop that?"

The team behind the development, Thamesfield, says although it would like to remain on the existing youth centre site in Deanfield Avenue, it needs funds from its sale to create what its senior trustee, Oliver Makower, calls a solution to the ‘massive gap between the "haves" and "have nots" in Henley’.
"We can’t allow this behaviour to continue, that is why the new centre must be built, to help those young people left behind with practically nowt, disregarded by a culture of sending people to university," he said.

"If we were to redevelop the current site it would cost between £300,000 and £400,000, and even then would be second rate as the space is too limited for what we want. By moving to Makins we can fulfill government objectives and attract funds from Sport England, the Arts Council and Learning and Skills Council.
"We will have an abseiling tower, a climbing wall, music studio with resident rap artist, and a workshop to teach high-level artisan skills such as plumbing, electrical work, brick-laying and even cooking.

"We want to put an end to the nuisance behaviour and graffiti. It will be tough, but with a lot of hard work and a live-in caretaker at the centre, it can happen."

Friday 2 November 2007

Review: Athenaeum Hotel, Piccadilly

Stretching over Green Park to the London Eye and Buckingham Palace, the Athenaeum Hotel, on London’s Piccadilly, must thank its lucky stars it boasts such a spectacular view. At first glance, it is undeniably the hotel’s most redeeming feature, especially for those who do not arrive by taxi or limousine, but instead by humble tube.
Slap in-between Green Park and Hyde Park Corner tubes, get out at the latter if you opt to splash out the minimum £225-a-night. Because to arrive at the former draws you down the splendour of Piccadilly, eagerly anticipating what you perceive to be a hotel of grandeur: a building to rival embassies, the former home of a lesser-known Prime Minister or even the nearby Royal Academy.

You catch a gasp - there are the tell-tale flags and much-coveted stars adorning heavy, imposing columns which form the entrance. But hang on a minute - the Park Lane Hotel? Must be on the wrong street. Nope. It’s definitely Piccadilly.
Then it hits you, like the waft of a portaloo at Glastonbury. It’s that hideous lump of concrete next door.
A ruddy-faced doorman placates my horror with a reassuring smile as he pulls open the door - he knows what I’m thinking, but doesn’t much care for first impressions.

This is because the Athenaeum is part-way through a re-vamp, which has already seen an exquisite transformation of the entire ground floor. Olive trees and lavender greet you on entering, Riccardo Cinalli’s magical roses painted in oils on plexiglas provide an intriguing touch to the lobby, and set into the wall behind the reception desk are 135,000 mother of pearl buttons, inspired by London’s pearly kings and queens.

What a shame that charm wasn’t shared by the cantankerous, seemingly ageist receptionist. I realise I don’t possess the swagger of a fat cat American with a bank balance even bigger than my bloated belly, but it surely should not deny me any of the same courtesies, such as offering for a porter to carry my bag. It wasn’t heavy, but that’s not the point.
And after all, the hotel gave me a freebie in the hope I write a flattering review and entice the people of Henley to part with their hard-earned cash and enjoy what is a luxury hotel.

But I digress. Attention to detail is this hotel’s forte: try the home-infused rosemary, lemongrass or chocolate vodkas in the bar, apple juice from Henry VIII’s Tudor orchards or one of 250 malts in the famous whisky room.
It also boasts to be ‘the only place in London’ where you can sample honey made from beehives in Regents Park and offers a particularly plush ladies’ powder room, with pink panelling, arm chairs, antique dressing tables and fluffy white towels. Who needs a grand façade with such decadence!

Well, I do. Although scattered with some elegant furniture my ‘executive’ room was no bigger than a standard double in a Thistle hotel. Every room is set for a refit in the coming months - which is somewhat overdue as not even the dreamily comfortable bed or ferocious shower could sway my attention from the brown sweat patches on the dated canvas headboard.

The hotel knows its exterior is ugly, as it has posted not one roadside photo onto its attractive online gallery. It is even considering draping the front in plants.
Regardless, that should not deter visitors, especially after renovations are complete. The Athenaeum stands on one of the most revered addresses in the capital and is a short hop from many of London’s greatest attractions, from the Royal Academy to numerous West End theatres and the most exhilarating view of any city in the world, from Westminster to Wembley, high up on the London Eye.